Jeti Oghuz to Karakol, Kyrgyzstan

Distance: 20 miles
Time on bikes: 0.75 hours

We make it through the night and in the light of the day, the place isn’t quite as scary as it was the night before. There’s no reason to hang around as it looks quite overcast so we may as well get on our way. We’re planning on riding around the south of lake Issik Kol, however we first need to pop back into Karakol as we forgot to send the payment to Carolyn for ordering the new Cardo intercoms.

We retrace our steps back to Karakol and just as we’re pulling up outside the Post Office Internet area, looking to see if it’s open, a car pulls alongside us. To begin with we think it’s just another car driver, irritated that his path has been slightly hindered by a vehicle in the way. The car however pulls to a stop in front of us and a lady jumps out with a beaming smile. She’s called Marzey, originally from Iran, married to a Swiss guy and now living in Karakol. She’s incredibly friendly and asks where we’re headed. She has a guest house in town and offers us back to her place to have a cup of tea and for her to pass on some details for a B&B in Bishkek where we’re headed.

We get things sorted with the internet and ride a couple of minutes up to the road to Marzey’s guest house. It’s a really lovely place with a very homely feel. We sit down and have a chat over a cup of tea and the time seems to pass very quickly. The weather isn’t good today and after it starts to rain we decide to change plans and instead of riding along the lake, we instead stay another night at Marzey’s and go to visit the Przewalski Museum. This was really good and gave a great account of this great Russian explorer who led expeditions discovering the lands of Central Asia. He died from Typhus and is buried according to his wishes on the shore of lake Issik Kol, nearby to where the museum now stands.

When we get back to the guest house there’s a Swiss Land Rover parked up inside the courtyard next to our bikes. We’ve brought some lunch back from the market and sit in the garden to relax for a bit. Inside the guest house, in the dining room, there is a lady typing away on a laptop. She’s called Christiane and we soon get talking. She’s travelled down from Switzerland in her Land Rover, through Iran and many other countries to arrive in Karakol. She set off on 18 April, one day before us so it’s kind of amazing that we arrive at the same place on the same day nearly four months later.

The next four hours seem to just disappear as we chat away and give each other information about the places we’re headed to. It’s 8pm now so we quickly head out for a walk into town to grab something to eat at one of the cafes. By the time we finish eating it’s pouring with rain so we jump in a taxi back to the guest house.

Staying at the guest house was really appreciated as it was so clean and well presented and it’s a real shame that travel guides such as lonely planet does not mention it. It’s far nicer than the other places we’ve seen. If anyone is in Karakol we thoroughly recommend it. It’s Marzey’s Guest house located about five blocks south of the telecom tower – look out for the yellow sign on the lamppost (86 Korolkova Street – +996 3922 5555 – marzeysguesthouse@yahoo.com).

Jour 118 – Samedi 14 Aout 2010. De Jeti Oghuz a Karakol, Kyrgyzstan

Distance: 30 km – Temps a moto: 0.75 heures

On se réveille contents d’avoir survecu la nuit dans cet endroit etrange, et il y a même de l’electricite ! Après un petit déjeuner de pain et chocolat avec un jus de fruit nous repartons en direction de Karakol comme nous avons oublie de payer l’amie qui nous a commande les intercoms. Et après nous avons l’intention de faire la partie sud du lac d’Issik kol.

Quand nous nous arrêtons devant la poste pour aller sur internet, une femme s’arrete et avec un grand sourir se presente a Carl Elle s’appelle Marzey et est d’origine d’Iran, elle a un B&B tout près et nous propose d’y passer boire un the avant de reprendre la route, et de nous donner l’adresse d’un B&B a Bishkek. Nous passons donc un peu plus tard, et discutons un long moment avec elle. Comme il y a le marche aux bestiaux le lendemain, nous décidons de rester une nuit de plus et de profiter de son joli B&B. Nous passons au musee de Przewaski, ou nous avons un tour guide en anglais. Przewaski était un explorateur qui était l’un des premiers a traverser l’Asie central, et il est mort du Typhus a Karakol.

Nous retournons ensuite au B&B ou nous rencontrons Christiane, une femme suisse qui voyage en Land Rover, elle est partie le même jour que nous, le 18 avril, mais elle est passe par une route plus au sud et par l’Iran.

Nous discutons de nos voyages pendant les 4 heures qui suivent avant de sortir diner en ville.